Cheap flights to Gothenburg from PLN55*

Sweden’s second-largest city is a vibrant, modern alternative to city breaks full of old-town strolls. That doesn’t mean Gothenburg isn’t old – it dates from 1621– but this trading town’s style starts in the 19th century and races forward to the avant-garde. In a Volvo, perhaps, since this is the carmaker’s hometown, or on a roller coaster from Liseberg, a theme park that’s been entertaining visitors since 1923. With a lively art, design, culinary and nightlife scene, expansive city parks and marvellous museums, plus peaceful islands just off the coast, Gothenburg is perfect for a hip holiday.

 

A hip Swedish city break

Gothenburg, which uses this spelling internationally but calls itself Göteborg in Swedish, still has a moat and other canals, since it was built by the Dutch, who’ve always been the best at building on marshland. Fires destroyed most of Gothenburg’s old town, but you can still climb 100 steps up to the remains of the Skansen Kronan fortress for the view. Today, the buildings called “governors’ houses” built for the fast-growing working class, are among the oldest, and they’re now home to trendy cafés and boutiques along the cobblestone streets. Gothenburg has kept greenery and waterways at the centre of city life while transforming neighbourhoods from industrial to artsy, paying tribute to tradition while admiring the experimental.

 

Canals, parks and trends

Alongside broad avenues such as Avenyn, elegant canals and cosy neighbourhoods, Gothenburg offers vast green spaces such as the Garden Society of Gothenburg, one of the best-preserved 19th-century parks in Europe, the Botanical Gardens (think two-metre-wide water lilies), and Slottsskogen, an enormous park with a free zoo, lake, trails and cafés. Locals and tourists alike flock to Liseberg’s wooden roller coaster and other rides at weekends. Keep an eye on the Frihammen harbour and port area, which will soon become the Jubileumsparken to celebrate Gothenburg’s 400th birthday in 2021. Museums also abound – the Volvo Museum, the science discovery centre Universeum and the Röhsska Museum of design and applied arts are among the best in their genres. In terms of avant-garde architecture, there’s the Göteborg Opera House, meant to evoke seagull wings and ships’ hulls, and the love-it-or-hate-it skyscraper Göteborgs-Utkiken, also known as The Lipstick. Gothenburg’s ability to fuse the old and the new is also evident at the Feskekôrka, the “fish church”. Built in 1874 and inspired by Nordic stave churches, this is the city’s fresh fish market.

 

Homage to fresh fish

Gothenburg has a whopping six Michelin-starred restaurants, unusual for a city of its size. Thörnströms Kök and Koka are two that focus on Swedish dishes done differently, both in a minimalist setting. For shellfish, pop into Fiskekrogen, or if you want a whole world of flavours spread out before you, visit the sumptuous Saluhallen market hall, with 40 delis and restaurants. The microbrewery scene is lively, with Dugges Ale & Porterbryggeri, Oceanbryggeriet, Göteborgs Nya Bryggeri, Electric Nurse, Beerblioteket and Stigbergets Bryggeri among local producers. Try some at Ölhallen 7:an, the oldest brew pub in Gothenburg, or 3 Små Rum off the grand Avenyn avenue, or Brewers Beer Bar on trendy restaurant street Tredje Långgatan. The latter serves up sourdough pizzas with your pint.

 

Scandinavian art and design

Avenyn is the city’s main artery and shopping promenade, reminiscent of the Champs-Élysées, while independent designer shops are to be found in the Linné neighbourhood. For Sweden’s famous interior design, check out Artilleriett, Floramor & Krukatös or Vastergarden for handmade ceramics. Local artists have work on display at Galleri Ferm, Galleri Thomassen and Galleri Nils Åberg or visit the Röda Sten art centre to see the latest on the art and music scene in a venue that was once a power station. As evening sets (rather early in winter, mind you), Gothenburg gets going. Brew pubs abound, but for something different, go for cocktails at Mexican-inspired Puta Madre, or for tapas and wine at Juan Font. For free pizza (!) and half-price drinks on Fridays, stop by Yaki-Da Klubben, and stay for the five floors with five different music vibes. Nefertiti Jazz Club is legendary, while Sticky Fingers offers everything from R&B to death metal, pinball machines and a cube for smokers.

 

Islands galore

An archipelago spreads out before you at the Gothenburg harbour – you need only to board a ferry to a car-free island. Choose Vrångö, about an hour by tram and ferry, for quaint houses, walking trails, a picturesque harbour and restaurants in summer. Vinga, meanwhile, once hosted the most important lighthouse for the Port of Gothenburg. Pack a picnic and a fishing rod, or swim or soak up the sun on the cliffs – bring a jacket in autumn months and a thermos of tea or coffee. To venture north, visit Marstrand, a chic island that’s host to massive yachts and major sailing races. It offers shopping, gourmet eating and lots of lounging, on the rocks near the sea below the Carlstens fortress, for example. Cross the broad bridge from Stenungsund to Tjörn, which attracts artists and sailors alike with its rugged landscapes. It has a cutting-edge watercolour museum, Nordiska Akvarellmuseet near Skärhamn, next to the sea, of course. You can rent an ultra-modern guest studio over the water if you’re so inspired. Just off Tjörn are the remote, car-free Åstol and Dyrön. Åstol is known for its fish smokehouse, and Dyrön for hiking trails, a sauna and the views back toward the mainland, all the way to Marstrand with its hilltop fortress. For cute fishing village heaven, visit Mollösund on the island of Orust, with its red façades, orange roofs, windmill and lighthouse.

 

Gothenburg airport

Göteborg Landvetter Airport is 30 kilometres from the centre, accessible by Flygbuss Airport bus, taxi, ride-sharing services or rental car. The airport’s got plenty of cafés and places to pick up a quick and healthy bite to eat, plus a juice bar, burger bar, Irish-style pub and a Swedish speciality spot. There are clothing, delicatessen, electronics, travel item and duty free shops as well as a pharmacy.

 

Gothenburg weather

Gothenburg can be warmer than Stockholm, thanks to the warming effect of the Gulf Stream. In summer, it can get as hot as 30°C, and daylight lasts for 18 hours, but the average temperature in July is about 17°C. In winter, temperatures hover just below freezing during the daytime, which lasts less than 7 hours in December.