Corfu (also called Kerkyra or in Greek, Κέρκυρα) is the second largest member and the true queen of the Ionian Islands. And an impressively versatile one at that. Its principal city, Corfu Town, blends Greek, Italian, French and British influences into a cosmopolitan retreat that oozes charm and sophistication. Wherever you’re based on your Corfu island getaway, unspoilt Corfu is never too far away and beckons with ancient olive groves, dramatic cliffs and sleepy villages. Looking for the beachy side of Corfu? Prepare to fall head over heels in love with the island’s picture-perfect coves, framed by thick greenery on one side and emerald waters on the other, like so many before you. Greece’s spell-binding northwestern frontier brings together sea, sun, sand and stories that have inspired artists, empresses and holidaymakers alike, from Homer and Shakespeare through Drake to the philhellene Durrell brothers.
Meet the grande dame of the Ionian Islands
Corfu’s history, both fictional and factual, is full of heroes and heroines, romance and tragedy and rise and fall. Named after the beautiful nymph Korkyra, Corfu’s career as one of Greece’s most storied lands started out as the Homeric island of Scheria, home to the Phaeacians and Odysseus's last stop on his journey back to Ithaca. In medieval times, it became known as Europe’s major stronghold against pirates and Ottoman invaders. Its capital is still safeguarded by two majestic medieval castles, having earned the city the title of Kastropolis, meaning ‘castle city’. Corfu was eventually occupied by the British after the Napoleonic Wars and remained under the Crown’s rule right until the birth of modern Greece in 1864. Among its most famous ‘invaders’ were Miranda from Shakespeare’s The Tempest, Hollywood darlings Vivien Leigh and Laurence Olivier as well as British novelist Lawrence Durrell and his brother, the famed naturalist Gerald Durrell.
From naval power to metropolitan hub
Explore Corfu’s glorious medieval past in Corfu Town’s Old Castle or New Castle. Or both. Take in the 15th-century Venetian citadel, Palaio Frourio that withheld not one but three Ottoman sieges: the great siege of 1537, the siege of 1571 and the second great siege of Corfu in 1716. Besides stunning views of the capital and the bluest of seas, legend says that the twin peaks of the fortress also gave the city its name from the word ‘koryfi’, meaning ‘peaks’. The New Castle (or Fortezza Nuova as the Venetians called it), overlooking the northeastern part of Corfu, is just as remarkable both in terms of vistas and architectural finesse. Also dubbed the Fortress of St Mark, it was designed by the famous Italian military designer, Ferraute Vitteli, to encompass a dizzying number of chambers, galleries, stairs and ramps and serve as an impregnable line of defense against Turkish intruders. If you want to travel back in time a little further, pay a visit to the Temple of Artemis in Garitsa, just outside the capital. Built in the 6th century BC, the first Doric stone temple of its kind was a sanctuary dedicated to the worship of Artemis, essentially Greek mythology’s answer to Wonder Woman. The peripteral temple has been praised as a true feat of Ancient Greek architecture, and its western pediment, immortalising Perseus in the act of killing Medusa, as the "finest example of Archaic temple sculpture extant" by The New York Times. And of course, Easter in Corfu is nothing like you’ve ever seen before. Far from being a strictly religious event, Corfu’s Holy Week ceremonies are a joyous celebration of Corfiot customs to the sound of local philharmonics playing Albinoni's Adagio, Verdi's Marcia Funebre and Chopin's Funeral March to that of botis (pots) thrown from balconies. Make sure to pick up and take a piece of smashed pot home as a good luck charm!
A medley of ages, rulers and flavours with a touch of kumquat
With a history as far-reaching and tempestuous as Corfu's, exploring local cuisine is bound to be an adventure in its own right. You certainly won’t be disappointed. Centuries of Venetian domination have clearly left a mark on Corfiot tastes. The island’s signature dishes include sofrito (veal cooked with vinegar, garlic and parsley), bourdeto, a fish stew made with tomato sauce and red spicy pepper, bianco, a fish dish served with a garlicky-lemony sauce, potatoes and black pepper, and pastitsada, aka a tomato-drenched casserole dish traditionally eaten for Sunday dinner. The island also has some leftovers from its five decades as a British Protectorate: pudding and ginger beer. The islanders’ favourite drink, kumquat, however, is all Greek. The bright-orange liqueur is sweet and fragrant, and a common ingredient of cocktails, creams, puddings and unforgettable evenings. Foodies simply must book a table at the cathedral of Corfiot gastronomy, Etrusco, tucked away in the small village of Kato Korakiana. Run by the Botrini family since 1992, the restaurant's list of awards today runs longer than its menu, thanks to the endless creativity of Michelin-starred owner Ettore Botrini. For a more relaxed, not to mention wallet-friendly, dining experience, head to Corfu Town’s Fishalida. This sleek eatery is neighbours with the fishmongers, and as you can imagine, serves up the sea’s fresher-than-fresh bounty in some truly inventive ways. Taverna Tripa combines great food with great entertainment. Located in the quaint village of Kinopiastes just seven kilometres from Corfu Town, this legendary eatery has cooked up the most authentic Corfiot dishes since 1936 and lured in a steady crowd of devoted foodies with some pretty big names among them, such as Jane Fonda, Aristotle Onassis and Anthony Quinn.
In and outside Corfu Town: resort life in style and rhythm
Enjoy some of the best shopping on the island in Mezzo Mezzo on Nikiforou Theotoki Street. The high-end boutique stocks the most stylish essentials for resort living, from sought-after Greek labels such as Mary Katrantzou, Sofia Kokosalaki and Ancient Greek Sandals to Vivienne Westwood and Comme des Garçons. For more modestly priced, but no less exciting souvenirs, head to Kassiopi harbour. Watch the ships come and go, then set sail for the many lace shops peppered around the coastline. Hand-made lace is one of the country’s most famous exports and is said to be one of the earliest forms of lace-making. Visit Agathi’s Lace Shop on Kassiopi’s Main Street and catch Agathi as she turns cotton thread into stunning pieces of art, from garments through tablecloths to rugs. Cheese aficionados shouldn’t miss Paramythia Traditional Cheeses in Corfu Town and give in to temptation. Over and over again. As you’d expect from one of the most cosmopolitan Greek islands, Corfu isn’t exactly the first one to turn off the lights when it comes to nightlife and partying. Corfu city’s Old Town is amassed with stylish lounge bars to kick-start your night, mostly nested under the Liston arcade on the west side of Corfu’s Esplanade. The hottest clubs are lined up in the Emporiko district, with the bustlings bars of the Paleokastritsa, Sidari, Benitses, Dasia and Acharavi resorts giving them a run for their money. Corfu Town’s Naok Azur, an impossibly stylish balcony lapped by the Ionian Sea, has got you covered from your breakfast smoothie through your beachside refreshment to your nightcap. More of a contemporary art space than a bar, Polytechno is located right below Neo Frourio, welcoming Ionian University art students and foreigners alike. Sip your cocktail while listening to experimental sets or watching dance performances by up-and-coming Greek and foreign artists.
Corfu beaches: 50 shades of gold and blue
Stretching along some 200 kilometres of coastline, Corfu beaches are legion. Not to mention postcard-perfect and pristine, with 30 of them having earned the coveted Blue Flag eco-certification. Sidari’s main draws are its soft, sandy beaches and out-of-this-world rock formations, carved out by the surrounding emerald-hued sea. To find fjords and love, go west: legend says that if you take a dip in Canal d’Amour (Channel of Love), you’ll find your soul mate. Paleokastritsa is Corfu’s unofficial beach capital. It has six beautiful beaches, no less, each more Insta-worthy than the last. Looking for some secluded bliss? Ambelaki has all the comfort and none of the noise of popular Greek beaches. Agios Spyridonas, Agia Triada and Agios Petros are perfect hangouts for families, as well as water sports and snorkelling enthusiasts. Want some greenery with your suntan? Halikounas is essentially one strip of land between the Ionian Sea and the Korission lagoon, leading right into a thick forest of cedars and orchids.
Corfu weather
The climate of the archipelago of Corfu is warm mediterranean, making it the perfect spot to soak in some well-deserved winter sun. September and October bring warm days with temperatures around 23°C, as do early spring months. Summers are hot and dry with plenty of sunshine, rare rainfalls and seasonal breezes.
Corfu airport
Corfu’s Ioannis Kapodistrias International Airport is located 2 kilometres south of Corfu Town and 0.5 kilometre north of the islet of Pontikonisi. By car or taxi, it takes approximately a 10-minute drive to reach the city. Bus services between the airport and the city centre as well as car rental options are available.