Cheap flights to Santander from RON133*

Santander, with its stunning setting around its own bay on the northern coast of Spain, has beaches that draw surfers, a vast park with a royal palace and an old town with a quirky double cathedral. Plus, a friendly and busy tapas scene that’s low-key compared with nearby Bilbao, the trendy capital of the Basque country. Head down the coast for medieval and Modernista villages, or to the caves instead of a museum to see some of the world’s oldest paintings.

 

Fly to Santander, Spain for

A different side of Spain

Here in Cantabria you get the best of the coast, such as succulent seafood and sandy beaches, and the most of the mountains, meaning hilltop villages and hiking trails. Santander’s parks, peninsulas and palaces draw you into this friendly northern city, or choose to go beyond to visit a seaside or a mountaintop, see prehistoric cave paintings or avant-garde architectural wonders. This is an unusual and unassuming destination that will welcome you into its heart.

 

Parks, beaches and city strolls

Santander’s Catedral de la Asunción is actually two churches, one from the 14th century that stands above another from the 13th. Under that, there are Roman foundations. This unusual combination in the centre of the old town is in stark contrast with Centro Botin, a sleek modern arts and cultural centre on the waterfront, designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano and completed in 2017. Visit for a performance or exhibition, or just for the view over the Bahía de Santander, then stroll the more classic Jardines de Pereda as your return to the centre of town. Further out, on the peninsula, is a grand park perfect for picnicking and viewing Spanish galleon replicas as well as visiting the Palacio de la Magdalena, a palace built for the Spanish royals in 1912 vaguely reminiscent of Buckingham. To the north, El Sardinero’s 1.5km-long stretch of golden sand is lined with the fanciest of 20th-century architecture, and surfers gather here in autumn and winter to hit the big waves.

 

Seafood and stews

Cantabrian cuisine features seafood from the coastal areas plus game, veal and pork from the mountainous interior. Classic dishes include fried squid called rabas, and a bean, cabbage and pork sausage stew called cocido montañés. In Santander, choose Marisqueria Casa José for a hearty seafood meal, meaning mounds of luscious shrimp, shellfish and crab piled high to share, or Bodega Fuente De for the region’s meaty stews. Daria is the latest to attract foodies with imaginative dishes in a light and airy setting, or for a special evening of a tasting menu together with wines, head to El Serbal. In the coastal town of Comillas, try La Gilda for seafood such as razor clams or calamari on a terrace with the friendly owners. In the medieval hilltop town of Santillana de Mar (which is not on the sea despite its name), enjoy a leisurely Spanish lunch outdoors at Restaurante Palacio Mijares, in a stone villa. Or go down home and hearty at Restaurante Gran Duque with red exposed brick walls, friendly service and lovely grilled fish as well as steak dishes.

 

Souvenirs and speakeasy bars

Check out the Mercado de Esperanza to join the locals buying fresh produce from the seaside and the hills of Cantabria. For souvenirs, Santander es Mundial is a good choice or El Gourmet de la Tierruca for gourmet local foods such as cheese, anchovies or pâtés. Start your evening at Bar Caribe for cocktails, next to the casino at El Sardinero, chill Grog Santander, or Pub Blues, on the lively Plaza de Cañadío. Spend your evening in mellow speakeasy-style La Enmienda Dieciocho or Little Bobby. Around 2 a.m. you can head to Rocambole for a DJ-led party til dawn, or Sala Niagara for live music, jam sessions, or DJ sets until the sun comes up.

 

Prehistoric, Gaudí or Bilbao?

Explore the medieval city of Santillana del Mar, or if you prefer Art Nouveau, known in Spain as Modernista, visit Comillas to see one of Antoni de Gaudí’s earliest work, the flamboyant striped and flower-covered 1885 Capricho. These towns are perfect bases for visiting Altamira, site of some of the world’s most famous prehistoric art, discovered in 1879. They’re special because they’re more richly coloured than the outlines of animals found elsewhere. Also on the west coast, relax on the stunning sands of the Playa de Oyambre. You could also head just an hour east to Bilbao, capital of the Basque country and an incredible collection of some of the world’s greatest art, architecture and food. Visit Frank Gehry’s soaring metal Guggenheim and its unparalleled collection, cross a soaring bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava of Valencia’s City of Arts and Sciences, eat at one of a whopping six Michelin-starred eateries or try pintxos at one of the wannabes, explore Basque musical and folk culture or walk in the green hills around the city.

 

Santander airport

Santander Seve-Ballasteros Airport is just 15 minutes from the centre by bus, taxi or rental car. The airport has duty free and convenience shops, and cafes with takeaway.

 

Santander weather

The climate in Santander is cool and damp, influenced by the waters of the Atlantic, while inland it’s cooler in the mountains. The monthly average temperature ranges from 11°C in January to 21°C in August. It rarely gets warmer than 30°C in summer. The best time to visit Cantabria is from June to August or the first half of September, since it is the driest and sunniest of the year.