Cheap flights to Ohrid from EUR18*

Ohrid is revered as North Macedonia’s most precious jewel, and deservedly so. The city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has a magical setting on the edge of its eponymous lake, overlooked by tall mountains and a medieval castle. Here, Ottoman architecture and Byzantine churches sit right next to each other, and cobbled streets, lined with restaurants and cafés, climb the hillside. Hop from monastery to monastery and take in the view from every vantage point – and discover that Lake Ohrid has no bad angles. The city also makes a great base for exploring the surrounding area, brimming with natural and cultural heritage. You could even pop over to neighbouring Albania for a byrek, if you like. Or why not spend a lazy day or two in a deck chair by the water?

 

A history-filled lakeside getaway

Dubbed the “Pearl of North Macedonia”, Lake Ohrid straddles the country’s border with Albania and is hugged by steep, 2000-plus-metre mountains. At 300 metres deep, 30 kilometres long and about 3 million years of age, it’s the oldest and deepest lake in Europe and looks almost sea-like. Not to mention that it’s home to over 300 species that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. And that’s far from all. Ohrid has been an important cultural and spiritual centre for over a millennium and said to once have had as many as 365 churches, one for each day of the year. It was also the site of the first Slavic university and even served as the capital of the First Bulgarian Empire under Tsar Samoil in early medieval times. This is a truly special place, as attested by it being UNESCO-listed for both outstanding natural as well as cultural values, among only 39 World Heritage Sites.

 

Churches galore with views to match

To get your bearings, climb up to Ohrid’s most photographed edifice, the 13th-century Church of St John at Kaneo (Crkva Sveti Jovan at Kaneo), perched atop a cliff overlooking the azure lake. Give yourself ample time to soak up the view and once you’re done with taking selfies, be sure to check out the original frescoes inside. Then continue uphill to Plaošnik, home to the grand medieval Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon (Crkva Sveti Kliment i Pantelejmon) as well as the foundations of an early Christian basilica with elaborate floor mosaics. If you’re not out of breath yet, make Tsar Samoil’s Fortress your next stop: the vast, 10th-century Bulgarian stronghold is complete with turreted stone walls that offer wonderful vistas in all directions. On your way down, drop by the 2nd-century amphitheatre, which doubles as an atmospheric venue for Ohrid's Summer Festival, one of North Macedonia’s most prestigious cultural events. Speaking of which: if you’re visiting between mid-July and mid-August, don’t miss the concerts, theatre performances and exhibitions happening all around the city. Of course, there’s plenty to see in the historic centre, too. Ohrid’s largest church, the 11th-century Cathedral of St Sophia (Crkva Sveta Sofija), features centuries-old Byzantine frescoes, and so does the Church of Holy Mary Peribleptos (Sveta Bogorodica Perivlepta), built in the 13th century. Ohrid’s National Museum showcases wonderful historical relics, including Roman artefacts and a 5th-century golden mask, while the itty-bitty National Workshop for Handmade Paper boasts one of the two remaining copies of the Gutenberg Press – and it’s still in use!

 

Foodie delights and sun-kissed wine

Bringing together Balkan, Mediterranean and Turkish influences, food is one of North Macedonia’s biggest drawcards. Local specialities include tavče gravče, a chunky bean stew, turli tava, a flavoursome vegetable and meat stew cooked in a clay pot as well as veggies stuffed with ground meat. If you’re looking for something lighter on a hot day, try shopska salad, a refreshing mix of tomato, onion, cucumber and crumbly sheep cheese. Restaurant Antiko or Viva Ksantika in Ohrid’s old town are a great place to taste these classic dishes. Can’t tear yourself away from the lake? Opt for Letna Bavča Kaneo, a terrace restaurant by the water, right under the Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo. Its fish dishes are excellent – don’t miss the fried plasnica, the local small fish eaten whole like whitebait. How about some pizza? You can’t really go wrong with any of the pizzerias in the old town but if you’re stuck, Leonardo Pizza and Pizza Nemo on Tsar Samoil Street are a good choice. North Macedonia’s sun-drenched slopes are perfect for viticulture. Try Ohrid’s native red Ohridsko Crno or Pamid at Vila Mal Sveti Kliment, a small family winery that offers wine tastings, paired with cheeses, meat cuts or bruschettas – and a lovely view over the lake. Restoran Sveta Sofija, opposite the Sveta Sofija Cathedral, is also worth a visit to sample some local vino. With 100 Macedonian wines on the menu, the choice can be overwhelming, but the friendly staff are on hand to help. Don’t leave without tasting some Tikveš wines, predicted to be the next big thing in oenophile circles. Located in the heart of the country, the region boasts 300 days of sunshine a year, more than 2,000 years of grape-growing tradition and a new generation of winemakers who are ready to take on the world.

 

Sunset drinks and pearls shrouded in secrecy

On summer evenings, Ohrid’s bars and cafés are filled with holidaymakers enjoying the setting sun and the sound of the water lapping on the shore. The main artery for nightlife is along Kosta Abraš Street, dotted with bar-cafés offering great views. Liquid is one of the liveliest and most stylish of them all – enjoy a cocktail on its spacious al fresco terrace hanging over the lake. Fancy a bit of jazz with your drink? Head to the Jazz Inn, the oldest of its kind in the country, tucked away in a back alley near Sveta Sofija Cathedral. Shopping for souvenirs? Look out for Ohrid’s famous pearls that have been worn by royalties, including Britain’s Queen Elisabeth II and Queen Margrethe II of Denmark. Fun fact: these gems don’t come from oysters but are created using the scales of the small plasnica fish, endemic to the lake. Two local families, the Filevis and the Talevis, guard the secret of the pearl’s exact composition, which was passed on to them by a Russian soldier back in the 1920s. Buy from their shops to avoid fakes. Other treasures to take home include filigree jewellery, handmade ceramics, traditional costumes and elaborate wood carvings.

 

Beaches and day trips around Lake Ohrid

You can go for a dip in Lake Ohrid from June to September, so make sure to pack your swimwear if you’re visiting then. There are pleasant pebble beaches in Ohrid between the port area and the Church of St John at Kaneo – the beaches around the latter tend to be a tad quieter than the rest. Sveti Naum, about 30 kilometres to the south by the Albanian border, is regarded as one of the best swimming spots around the lake, featuring beautiful sandy beaches in the shadow of the imposing Sveti Naum Monastery. For a party atmosphere, head to Gradiste beach in-between St Naum and Ohrid. Expect music pumping and drinks flowing well into the early hours on this popular strip of beach. Five kilometres down the road, you’ll find the complete opposite: Trpejca’s pebble beach offers a secluded feel and crystal-clear turquoise waters, enclosed by tall cliffs. Its nickname of “the Macedonian Saint-Tropez” might be a bit of an exaggeration but it’s certainly a sight to behold. How does an unusual history lesson sound? Take a bus or jump in a boat to the Museum on Water at the Bay of Bones, 15 kilometres from Ohrid. This fascinating place is a reconstruction of a prehistoric pile dwelling settlement that was built on top of the water somewhere around 1200 BC. The remains of the village were discovered and excavated from the bottom of the lake between 1997 and 2005 – the adventurous can hire scuba diving equipment and visit the underwater excavations themselves. Are the mountains calling your name? Lace up your boots and ascend Magaro peak, the highest summit of Galičica National Park at 2,254 metres. Most hikers set out in the centre of Pestani village, 15 kilometres from the city of Ohrid. The elevation gain is about 1,500 metres but your efforts will be rewarded with spectacular views over Lake Ohrid on one side and its sibling, Lake Prespa, on the other.

 

Ohrid airport

Ohrid’s St Paul the Apostle Airport is North Macedonia’s second international airport, located 10 kilometres north of the city. Its small, recently renovated terminal has all the necessary amenities, from snack bars to a duty-free shop. To get to Ohrid, look for the airport shuttle bus or hire a car.

 

Ohrid weather

Ohrid’s climate is influenced by the surrounding mountains as well as the Mediterranean and the Adriatic Sea, resulting in a mixture of temperate and balmy Mediterranean climates. August tends to be the driest and hottest month, with temperatures often climbing into the mid-30s, while winter sees the most precipitation. The best time to visit is between May and early October but July and August can get a bit crowded.