Cheap flights to Niš from EUR22*

Tucked away in southeastern Serbia, Niš is one of the Balkans’ best-kept secrets. The laid-back university town is chock-full of history, dating to ancient times and ranging from the magnificent to the macabre. The city is alive with cafés and bars, many drawing a boisterous student crowd, and boasts a vibrant foodie and live music scene. And if you want to get the adrenaline pumping, the sky is literally the limit: the surrounding mountains are perfect for rock climbing and paragliding, whatever your level of experience (and courage).

 

A history-packed city break

One of the oldest settlements in the Balkans, Niš has been inhabited since 5000 BC. A strategically important city between east and west, it was known as Naissus in Roman times and became the birthplace of three Roman emperors, including Constantine the Great, who converted the empire to Christianity around 330 AD. Niš is also rich in Ottoman heritage, having been under Turkish rule for almost four centuries despite several attempts at breaking away from the empire. The city finally gained independence in 1878 and became part of the Serbian state but there were more turbulent times to come. In World War I, Niš had briefly served as the wartime capital of Serbia before it was seized by the Bulgarian army. The city also suffered greatly during the German occupation about 25 years later. The Nazis built a concentration camp here and used Bubanj Hill for mass shootings. Yet, despite all the past wounds, Niš knows how to have a good time. It is known as the capital of merak, a Serbian expression meaning the bliss you can get from the simplest pleasures in life.

 

A walk through centuries

Start your history lesson at the Ottoman-era Niš Fortress, rising on the right bank of the Nišava River, the city’s namesake. Walk through the imposing Stambol Gate to see some of Niš’s Roman ruins and the 16th-century Bali-beg Mosque, then have a pit stop in one of the café-restaurants housed within the ancient walls. Drop into the Archaeological Hall nearby for prehistoric, Roman and medieval relics, and be sure to visit Constantine the Great’s 4th-century residence, Mediana, showcasing 1,000 square metres of recently renovated mosaics. Catch a bus or a taxi to see Skull Tower, the city’s most (in)famous sight. It was built by Turkish commander Hurshid Pasha in 1809 from the skulls of 952 Serbian soldiers as a grim warning to the rebellious locals. Only 59 of them remain today but the effect is no less dreadful. Another dark reminder of man’s inhumanity to man is the Red Cross Camp, one of the best-preserved Nazi concentration camps in Europe, which once held thousands of Serbs, Jews and Roma. Remember those killed and those who resisted in the Bubanj Hill Memorial Park. The moving Yugoslav-era memorial (spomenik) is centred around three enormous concrete fists rising from the ground as if they were shaking at the sky.

 

Gluttonous heaven

Forget calorie counting: Niš is one of the best, if not the best, places in the country to gorge on traditional dishes, from ćevapčići (spicy meat sausages) and pljeskavica (meat patty) to moreish kajmak (similar to clotted cream). Head to the cobblestoned Tinkers’ Alley and simply choose a kafana (tavern) that takes your fancy. For thrills from the grill in the centre, try Kafana Galija, one of the oldest restaurants in the city, or book a table at Nišlijska Mehana, a locals’ favourite. If you’re looking to splash out a little, visit Stambolijski, housed in a beautifully preserved 19th-century Ottoman home. The restaurant is famed for serving up imaginative contemporary takes on Balkan classics. Niš also calls itself the burek capital of the country: stop by any bakery (pekara) and be the judge of the local phyllo pastry stuffed with cheese, spinach and other fillings.

 

Music to your ears

Tinkers' Alley is also a great choice for nightlife, lined with bars and cafés, many with live music at night. If craft beer is your thing, you can hang out with fellow hopheads at Pivnica Nemir or at Ministarstvo Beer Bar, both offering a good variety of Serbian and international brews on tap. For a Belgrade-style (read: loud and crazy) experience, head to Feedback, featuring regular gigs and DJ nights, with a tendency of leaning towards the alternative. Cafe Club Saloon, housed within the fortress walls, is another popular live music bar, with an eclectic selection ranging from Serbian pop-rock to acoustic nights. Speaking of music in the fortress, jazz lovers might want to time their visit for August when the renowned Nišville International Jazz Festival comes to town.

 

Outdoor adventures

Active types will find plenty of chances to go for a hike in the surrounding mountainous area, while the more adventurous can have a go at rock climbing in the Sićevo and Jelašnica Gorges, just 15 kilometres from Niš. The area is also one of the best spots in Serbia for paragliding and it even hosted the 2017 Paragliding World Cup – if you’re a newbie, opt for a tandem flight from Mount Koritnik. For those that would rather stay closer to the ground, there is also rafting on the Nišava River or jeep safari tours in the mountains. After all the exercise, visit Niška Banja, just 9 kilometres from the city, and soak your tired limbs in its mineral-rich pools. Wonders further afield include Đavolja Varoš (Devil’s Town), a cluster of more than 200 natural stone pyramids, and Sokobanja, the only working Turkish-era hammam (spa bath) in the country.

 

Niš airport

Located just 4 kilometres from the city centre, Niš Constantine the Great Airport is Serbia’s second airport. It is served by buses 34A and 34B, but you can also take a taxi or rent a car. The small, one-terminal airport offers a bistro, a duty-free shop and free Wi-Fi.

 

Niš weather

Niš has a mild, continental climate. July is the warmest month, with an average of 22.5°C, although temperatures can rise well into the 30s. August is the driest month, while June tends to get quite wet. Winter brings the occasional snowfall, with temperatures usually hovering just above freezing point. Fly to Niš in April-May or September-October if you want to avoid any extremes of climate.