Cheap flights to Ljubljana from MKD1,621*

With a population of less than 300,000, Ljubljana might be smaller than most European capitals but it’s certainly big on things to see and do. Sitting below a hilltop castle on the banks of the emerald Ljubljanica river, it’s one of the greenest and most liveable cities on the continent. The Slovenian capital packs in a myriad of museums, restaurants, bars and clubs but also makes a great base for day trips into the Alps or to the Venetian-influenced seaside. Bring your comfy shoes, as this is a place made for strolling, with most sights clustered in the car-free city centre and along the winding river.

 

A leafy, riverside city break

Crowned the “Green Capital of Europe” by the European Commission in 2016, Ljubljana banned cars from its centre over a decade ago and boasts 542 square metres of green space per capita. In fact, nearly 75% of the city is covered by parks and forests! It also takes great pride in its zero-waste recycling programme and a free electric car taxi service called Kavalir. Much of Ljubljana bears the personal stamp of modernist architect Jože Plečnik, who spearheaded the rebuilding of the city after a devastating earthquake in 1895. His masterpieces include the extravagant National and University Library, the embankment of the Ljubljanica, the colonnaded Central Market as well as unusual bridges such as the Cobbler’s Bridge and the Triple Bridge. Spot his signature lampposts, columns and pyramids as you walk around Ljubljana’s historic core.

 

Cultural binge under Ljubljana Castle

Begin your exploration by hiking or taking the glass funicular to the top of Castle Hill, home to the iconic Ljubljana Castle. Set aside a couple of hours to roam the castle grounds, see the exhibitions and climb the watchtower for the views – on a clear day, you can see the mighty Julian Alps. Beneath the castle lies Ljubljana’s cobbled Old Town, an ensemble of three squares that run into one another. Stari Square is probably the nicest of them, lined with wooden shop fronts, quaint courtyards and passageways. Continue your amble to Mestni Square, dominated by the Town Hall, then admire the twin-towered Cathedral of Saint Nicholas. Cross the Art Nouveau Dragon Bridge and take a loop along the riverbank, where cafés and restaurants spill out onto the pavement. The vast Park Tivoli, Ljubljana’s green lung, is also worth a detour. Not only does it offer lovely paths and cycling lanes, but it’s also home to the International Centre of Graphic Arts, the National Museum of Contemporary History and the Zoo. To learn about Plečnik, the architect who single-handedly transformed the city in the early 20th century, pop into Plečnik House, his home for 40 years. For more on the city’s rich history, visit the City Museum of Ljubljana, with fascinating multimedia and interactive displays spanning several millennia. History buffs should also check out the National Museum of Ljubljana, housing archaeological treasures, including the world’s oldest musical instrument, a 60,000-year-old flute, and Vače Situla, a ritual vessel dating from the 5th century BC. Next door is the Slovenian Museum of Natural History, showcasing mammoth and whale skeletons and a display dedicated to the country’s pink cave salamander, Proteus anguinus. For the very best in Slovenian contemporary art, don’t miss the nearby Museum of Modern Art.

 

Fresh local produce, street food and Slovenia’s best restaurants

Ljubljana’s landmark Central Market is a must-stop for foodies. Designed by Plečnik (who else?), the covered walkway runs along the Ljubljanica between Triple Bridge and Dragon Bridge, packed with stalls selling everything from fresh fish, cured meats and homemade cheeses to foraged wild mushrooms, berries and honey. If you’re in town between March and October, schedule your visit for a Friday to experience the huge outdoor food fair called Odprta Kuhna (Open Kitchen). The weekly gourmet extravaganza brings together some 60 of Slovenia's best eateries, offering local and international specialities, all cooked on-site. Be sure to try štruklji, baked rolls of filo pastry stuffed with a sweet or savoury filling and topped with breadcrumbs. For traditional Slovenian fare, visit Gostilna na Gradu in the castle, where award-winning chefs cook up age-old recipes, using organic, locally sourced ingredients. Or try Pri Škofu, a quirky little restaurant with a good-value menu that changes according to the season – do leave room for dessert! For something a bit more upmarket, book a table at Špajza and sample Mediterranean specialities with a modern twist under frescoed ceilings. Fancy a quick snack? Pop into Klobasarna and wolf down a protected Carniolian sausage, served with a warm roll, mustard and horseradish.

 

Gourmet shopping and alternative nightlife

You can pick up hand-painted ceramics and other keepsakes in the souvenir shops lining Mestni Square and Stari Square. Tradition meets contemporary design at Trgovina Ika, an art gallery-cum-shop that stocks the works of 100-plus local artists and designers, including jewellery, fashion and porcelain. Looking for souvenirs of the edible sort? Head to Kraševka, a deli selling dry-cured hams and artisan cheeses, wines and honeys, oils and vinegars. For Slovenian salt from the coast, visit Piranske Soline, while Vinoteka Movia is a wine lover’s paradise (it also serves as a bar if you prefer to taste before you buy). In summer, cafés and bars set up outdoor seating all along the Ljubljanica, creating a vibrant street party atmosphere. Slovenska Hiša is a hip cocktail bar on the right bank of the river, or choose Dvorni on the other side for a crash course on Slovenian wine. If you’d prefer to spend the night with the city beneath your feet, make your way to elegant Nebotičnik (“Skyscraper”) and soak up the view on the top floor of a 1930s high-rise. In the mood for something (very) different? Head to quirky Metelkova Mesto, a former army garrison that was taken over by squatters in the 1990s. It’s now home to colourful art installations and dozens of nightclubs and concert venues, offering everything from metal to jazz and punk to techno.

 

Alpine scenery, underground magic and the sea

Slovenia’s small size means that one day you could be hiking in the Julian Alps; the next, soaking up the rays by the sea. Picture-perfect Lake Bled is less than an hour’s drive away from Ljubljana, and it’s just as stunning in real life as on Instagram. Take your own snaps of the church clinging to its little island in the middle of the bluish-green water, climb up to the medieval clifftop castle and walk (or cycle) the 6-kilometre loop around the lake. For the more adventurous, there are also canyoning, rafting, rock climbing and caving possibilities in the area. Postojna Cave, about 50 kilometres from Ljubljana, also makes for a great day trip. The 2-million-year-old subterranean labyrinth is Europe's largest show cave, featuring house-sized stalactites and stalagmites, vast halls with Murano glass chandeliers and a fun train ride to top it all off. Or head down to picturesque Piran on the Adriatic coast, sitting at the tip of a slim peninsula. Soak up the historic charm of the Old Town, full of meandering alleyways and charming Italianate squares, fringed by Venetian Gothic palaces.

 

Ljubljana airport

Located 24 kilometres northwest of the city, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport is a small, easy-to-navigate airport. There are duty-free, souvenir and jewellery shops as well as various dining options, including bars and cafés, fast food, self-service and sit-down restaurants. To reach Ljubljana, choose from the various bus and shuttle bus services, taxis and car rental options available.

 

Ljubljana weather

Ljubljana has a temperate climate, with warm summers and cold, snowy winters. July and August bring long, balmy days and plenty of sunshine, and temperatures can climb above 30°C. Late spring and early autumn are also perfect for a city break, with reliably pleasant weather and thinning crowds. Choose December to March for skiing, or April to September for hiking, water and adventure sports in the Alps.